Călărași in Moldova, divin and monasteries in the Codru

Călărași is a district town in the wooded hills of the Codru, roughly halfway between Chișinău and Ungheni. The town lives from wine and divin, Moldovan brandy, and is a logical base for the monasteries of Hîrbovăț, Răciula and Hîrjauca.

Why go

Călărași lies where the Codru comes closest to the main road to Romania. The town itself is compact and not very touristy, but the hills around it are covered in oak and beech forest, and some of the country's most beautifully situated monasteries lie within them. For wine lovers, Călărași is also the name of one of Moldova's best-known divin houses.

History and character

The name refers to the călărași, the horsemen who guarded the borders of the old Principality of Moldavia and carried the prince's post. The oldest mention is a charter of Prince Ilie from 1432 or 1433, in which he grants the village of Tuzara; the later Tuzara-Târg grew together with the village of Călărași. The first train arrived in 1873, and from then on fresh and dried fruit and walnuts were exported to Russian cities.

Around 1900 the town was predominantly Jewish; in 1905 a pogrom claimed dozens of lives. Brandy was distilled here from 1901 onwards. During the Second World War Călărași was almost completely destroyed and then rebuilt in Soviet style. At the 2024 census the town had 9,413 inhabitants.

What to see and do

The large wine and divin company has been operating for more than a hundred years and is the town's economic anchor. Călărași Legenda VS became the first Moldovan divin with the protected geographical indication (PGI) Divin.

The real reason to come lies outside the town. The district's forests hold the monasteries of Hîrbovăț, Răciula and Hîrjauca, each with its own atmosphere. The hills around Tuzara rise to 383 m, which by Moldovan standards is quite a height. The Codrii nature reserve near Lozova is a short distance away.

Eating, drinking and sleeping

In town you will mainly find simple restaurants and cafés along the main street. In the surrounding Codru villages, pensiuni and agritourism guesthouses offer rooms with home-made food and their own wine. Monasteries sometimes offer simple lodging to pilgrims; ask locally.

Practical information and tips

Călărași lies 49 km from Chișinău, on the road and railway to Ungheni. By car you get there in about 50 minutes; buses, minibuses and regional trains run daily. You need a car for the monasteries, as they are scattered across the hills. Dress modestly, and bring insect repellent for forest visits in summer.