The Codru in Moldova, forests, monasteries and wine

The Codru is the hilly, wooded heart of the Central Moldavian Plateau, between Chișinău, Ungheni and Orhei. The word means old, dense forest; the region is home to the Codrii nature reserve, many monasteries and the vineyards of the protected Codru wine region.

Why go

Moldova is largely a land of fields and open hills, but in the Codru it turns green and high. Oak, lime, maple and hornbeam cover the slopes, with monasteries, vineyards and villages in between. If you want to get out into nature from Chișinău, this is the nearest and most varied region.

History and character

In the Middle Ages most of the Principality of Moldavia was forested, and these forests were collectively known as codri, with regional names such as the Codrii Orheiului and the Codrii Lăpușnei. According to the description of the region, the forest cover has shrunk sharply since the eighteenth century because of farming. In Romanian the word has an almost legendary ring: "dreaming of green forests" means dreaming of something impossible.

The Codru contains the country's highest point, Bălănești Hill (429 m), and the Codrii scientific reserve, founded in 1971. Codru is also one of Moldova's four protected wine regions (PGI), alongside Ștefan Vodă, Valul lui Traian and Divin.

What to see and do

The Codrii reserve near Lozova has a strictly protected section and an accessible section with walking trails and a nature museum. Monasteries are scattered through the forests: Căpriana near Strășeni, Hîrbovăț and Răciula near Călărași, Hîncu near Nisporeni. In the east the Codru merges into Orhei National Park, with Orheiul Vechi, Curchi Monastery and the landscape reserves of Trebujeni and Țigănești. Bălănești Hill lies in the Cornești hills, between the Prut and the Răut.

Roe deer, red deer, wild boar and badgers live in the forests. In spring snowdrops, wood violets, lilies of the valley and wild garlic flower here.

Eating, drinking and sleeping

Scattered across the region are pensiuni and agritourism farms where you eat home cooking and drink local wine. Many wineries of the Codru PGI welcome visitors by appointment. Around Căpriana and Lozova, forest restaurants are popular at weekends.

Practical information and tips

The Codru begins half an hour from Chișinău. Strășeni and Călărași can be reached by minibus and train, but for monasteries and reserves a car is almost essential. Combine one forest area with one or two monasteries per day. Wear sturdy shoes, take water and use tick repellent in summer.