Fetească Neagră

Origins and history

Fetească Neagră is a native variety from the historical region of Moldavia, the land between the Carpathians and the Dniester that has been divided between two states since the 19th century. Ampelographers count it among the varieties that were already planted before the phylloxera crisis of the late 19th century. Synonyms such as Păsărească Neagră and Poama Fetei Neagră point to a long local tradition.

In the Soviet era the grape largely disappeared from the vineyards of today's Republic of Moldova, where central planning favoured productive and international varieties. In eastern Romania, however, it held its ground. Since independence Moldovan producers have been replanting it, and today it is one of the native varieties with which the country presents itself as a wine nation.

How it is made

The grape has thick skins and compact bunches. It copes well with heat, drought and winter cold and is not very prone to rot, an advantage in Moldova's continental climate. The wine is a deep ruby red, usually reaches 12 to 14% alcohol and has a recognisable note of blackcurrant. It used to be blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to give it more body; these days it is mostly bottled as a single varietal. Most bottles are dry, but there are also medium-dry and sweet versions. With ageing in oak and in bottle, the wine becomes rounder and fuller.

Where and how to try it

Almost every Moldovan winery has a Fetească Neagră in its range, from Asconi and Château Vartely in the centre to Fautor in the south, where the grape joins Rară Neagră in the flagship wine Negre. At a tasting it pays to set a young, fruity version beside an oak-aged one: the difference in structure shows what the variety can do. At the table the wine goes well with grilled meat, tochitură and mature sheep's cheese.