Ștefan Vodă, a town and wine region in south-east Moldova

Ștefan Vodă is a small district town of about 5,400 inhabitants (2024 census) in south-eastern Moldova, close to the Ukrainian border on three sides. It began in 1909 as the German colony of Kizil and was called Suvorov in Soviet times. Today its name is also borne by a wine region with protected geographical indication, home to the Purcari estate among others.

Why go

For most visitors Ștefan Vodă is above all a name on a wine label. The Ștefan Vodă wine region with protected geographical indication covers the south-east of the country, between the lower Dniester and the Ukrainian border. The town itself is a quiet administrative centre, but a handy stop if you are visiting the region's wineries, such as Château Purcari, about 20 kilometres away.

History and character

A map from 1884 already shows a place called Chizil, but the real history begins in 1909, when German settlers founded the colony of Kizil here. They broke the steppe for farming, built a Lutheran church and a school, and grew vines among other crops. In 1930, 84 per cent of the 227 inhabitants were German. Shortly before the Second World War the Germans were resettled in Germany, and in 1941 only 12 people still lived here.

After the war a sovkhoz for medicinal plants was set up on the site of the colony. In 1964 the village became the centre of a new district named Suvorov, after the Russian general. In May 1990 the town was renamed Ștefan Vodă, after Prince Ștefan cel Mare. A bust of Suvorov is still a reminder of the old name.

What to see and do

The small centre with the monument to Ștefan cel Mare and the war memorials.
The bust of Alexander Suvorov.
Winery visits in the region, with Château Purcari as the best-known address.
Walks along the woods and ponds around the town.

Eating, drinking and sleeping

The town has a few simple hotels and restaurants. If you come for the wine, plan your tasting at an estate nearby and ask there in advance about meals and accommodation. Plenty of house wine is made in the district's villages; at the market you see what the southern steppe produces.

Practical information and tips

Ștefan Vodă lies about 100 kilometres south-east of Chișinău, roughly an hour and fifty minutes' drive. The usual route runs via Căușeni and stays outside the Transnistrian-controlled area around Bender. Buses and minibuses run from Chișinău. The nearest railway station is in Căușeni, 27 kilometres away. Combine the town with Căușeni and a wine tasting in one day, or spend a night on an estate.