Orhei

Why go

Orhei is the nearest town to Orheiul Vechi, Moldova's best-known landscape, and lies on the main road north. If you would rather not spend the night in a guesthouse in Butuceni or Trebujeni, you will find shops, cash machines and restaurants here. The town itself deserves a short walk past the old church and the central square. It also shows how an ordinary Moldovan district town lives, away from the tourist routes.

History and character

Orhei appears in the sources in 1554, under Prince Alexandru Lăpușneanu. The name is linked to the older Orhei, the medieval stronghold in the Răut valley now called Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei). When that old centre declined, life shifted upstream to the present site.

From the seventeenth century comes Saint Dumitru Church, built under Prince Vasile Lupu (reigned 1634-1653), whose statue stands on the central square. Before the Second World War a large Jewish community lived here; the big Jewish cemetery is a reminder of it.

What to see and do

• Saint Dumitru Church from the time of Vasile Lupu.
• The statue of Vasile Lupu on the central square, the town's meeting point.
• The old Jewish cemetery, with hundreds of gravestones in Hebrew script.
• Excursions to Orheiul Vechi with its cave monastery and the village of Butuceni, and to Curchi Monastery.

Eating, drinking and sleeping

In Orhei itself the restaurants are simple and cater to locals. To get to know the area better, stay at one of the family guesthouses in Butuceni or Trebujeni near Orheiul Vechi, where the hosts often cook themselves, with mămăligă (maize porridge), sheep's cheese and house wine. Orhei is also home to the Château Vartely wine estate, which welcomes visitors for tours and tastings.

Practical information and tips

The drive of about 49 kilometres on the R6 takes roughly an hour. Buses to Orhei leave Chișinău frequently; fewer services run to Orheiul Vechi, so a car or an organised trip gives you more flexibility. From Orhei to Butuceni it is about 30 kilometres. Combine the town with Orheiul Vechi and Curchi in one long day. Churches and monasteries in the area expect modest dress: shoulders and knees covered, and often a headscarf for women.